We will start with one of the most common questions that we get asked: Are lab-created stones real?

The short answer is yes, they are real. Lab-created gemstones are man-made in a lab, formed over days, weeks, months, or in some cases a year plus. Natural gemstones, on the other hand, are formed in the earth over thousands of years. Lab-created stones, also known as “lab-grown” (we will use these terms interchangeably in this article), are physically and chemically identical to their naturally occurring counterparts.

One way of thinking about this is to imagine a block of ice from a glacier sitting beside a block of ice from your freezer at home. Are they the same thing?

  • Visually: Yes.
  • Chemically: Yes.
  • Physically: Yes (hardness, melting point, density, refractive index, etc.).
  • Origin: Different.

Lab-created gemstones are like the ice from your freezer. They are not “fakes.” They are real crystals grown in a controlled environment.

This article will explain some of the basic gemology behind them, and why we choose to cut and sell them.

Synthetic vs. Simulant

You may come across the terms “synthetic” and “simulant” when looking into lab-created gemstones, both of which are gemological terms.

A synthetic gemstone is a lab-created mineral that is chemically and physically the same as its natural counterpart. Simulants, on the other hand, are made to more or less mimic natural gemstones, and therefore give the impression of being the real thing.

These terms can get a little confusing because in some cases a simulant can be both lab-created and meant to mimic a gemstone that it is not chemically/physically identical to. For example, cubic zirconia is both a lab-created gemstone in its own right (naturally occurring cubic zirconia is extremely rare), and also a simulant, i.e., it is meant to simulate the look of a diamond, but is not in any way a real diamond.

Synthetic (The “Real” Lab Stone)

A synthetic gem has the same chemical composition, crystal structure, and physical properties as its natural counterpart.

  • Example: A lab-grown sapphire is aluminum oxide (Al2O3) just like a mined sapphire. It is just as hard (9 on the Mohs scale), just as durable, and has the same refractive index.
  • Verdict: Real gemstone, man-made origin.

Simulant (The “Fake”)

A simulant is a material that looks like a gem but has completely different chemistry.

  • Example: A piece of red glass might look like a ruby at first glance, but it is soft, scratches easily, and doesn’t sparkle the same way.
  • Verdict: Synthetic (also known as an imitation).

(Note: We strictly cut synthetic and natural material. We do not cut simulants.)

How Lab-Grown Gems Are Created

There are a few different ways that lab-created stones are made.

The Most Common Method: Flame Fusion (a.k.a. the “Verneuil” process, named after the French chemist who invented it)

This is the oldest and cheapest method. Powder is melted through a flame and dripped onto a spinning rod to form a “boule.”

  • Pros: Very affordable.
  • Cons: If not manufactured or processed properly, can have internal stress (cracks).
Flame-fusion lab-grown gemstone creation diagram.

Flame-Fusion Process

When making sapphire and ruby, powdered aluminum oxide is fed into an extremely hot oxyhydrogen flame, melting the powder onto a platform where a “boule” crystalizes.

Corundum Boule

This is the beginning of the formation of a corundum boule. The red variety of the mineral corundum is ruby; all other colors are sapphire.

More Expensive, Longer Methods: Flux & Hydrothermal

Ingredients are dissolved in a super-heated solution (mimicking the earth’s crust), slowly crystallizing over months.

  • Pros: These stones often have natural looking inclusions. A flux-grown emerald can have the same type of inclusions as natural emeralds, making it difficult to distinguish from its natural counterpart.
  • Cons: Significantly more expensive due to the time and technology required.
An example of hydrothermally grown emerald rough.

Hydrothermal Lab-Grown Emerald

Crystals are formed by exposing seed plates to a bath of mineral-rich liquid while under extreme heat and pressure (400°C to 600°C; 5000 to 30,000 psi). Image by Newermore ares

Why We Cut Lab Material

When you buy a commercial cut lab stone (like the ones in many jewelry stores), they are usually cut in factories that treat the material like plastic. They window the stone, polish it poorly, and make it look cheap. But lab-created stones can look incredible. Since they have the same optical characteristics as their natural counterparts, but are often flawless with vivid colors, cutting the material with care and precision can result in a gemstone that optically outperforms many natural stones.

Precision cutting:

  1. Meetpoint faceting means good symmetry.
  2. High Polish: 60,000 to 100,000 grit polish for facets.
  3. Correct angles optimized for light return.

Because of their reduced price point, lab-grown stones open up a world of beautiful gems to many people who otherwise wouldn’t consider purchasing one.

Why Buy A Lab-Created Gemstone?

Traceability

While we work hard to source ethically mined stones, the supply chain is complex. Lab-grown stones have a zero-conflict footprint. No earth was displaced, and the working conditions are more transparent.

Colors

Nature rarely produces a perfect neon-pink sapphire or a flawless color-change alexandrite. If you want a specific, punchy color for a ring, lab-grown is often the only way to get it without spending a fortune.

Budget

Lab-created stones allow for a wide range of colors and sizes, all while staying budget-friendly. For example, a high quality natural 2ct royal blue sapphire will cost four to five figures, while a precision cut lab 2ct royal blue sapphire will be in the $300 to $800 price range.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will lab-created stones fade over time?

No. The color is atomic, inherent to the crystal structure. It is stable and permanent.

Are lab stones durable enough for an engagement ring?

Yes. Any natural stone that is durable enough to be set into an engagement ring can have its lab-created counterpart set instead.

Does it have resale value?

Lab stones do not hold investment value like rare natural stones. A lab-created stone should be bought for its beauty and wear, not as a financial asset.

Conclusion

If you value the geological history of a stone, the fact that it was created in the earth, possibly sitting there for millions of years before discovery, then a natural stone may be a better choice for you.

If you value affordability, perfect clarity, intense color, or transparent working conditions/place of origin, then you may want to consider a lab-grown stone.

There is no right choice here. Go with your heart, your gut, and your wallet.